Basics of Pattern Making & Pattern Making
A garment's design consists of distinct processes. Fit is the most significant factor that leads to a garment being finally accepted or rejected. Fit must be built into the initial pattern through subtleties in the pattern that provide unobtrusive fullness at suitable places for flattering accommodation of body bulges (Hudson). Good custom fit depends on the pattern design integrating different forms and client ratios. Standardized patterns were crucial to the achievement of ready-to-wear clothing with the beginning of the Industrial Revolution.
The making of patterns is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric in accordance with one or more human figure curves. Making patterns is a bridge between design and manufacturing. Using a pattern that interprets the design in the form of the garment components (Cooklin), a sketch can be turned into a garment.
A pattern is flat while it's not the body. The height, width and depth of the body. With a sequence of secondary curves and bulges in this approximately cylindrical structure, the pattern maker is concerned with. Darts are the foundation of all pattern making. The flat piece of cloth is converted into a three-dimensional shape that suits the body's bulges.
Usually a patternmaker creates a pattern from a plain sketch with measurements or an illustration of two dimensional fashion. The very basis on which pattern making, fit and design are based is the fundamental pattern. The fundamental pattern is the starting point for developing flat patterns. It's a straightforward pattern that suits the body with enough convenience and motion (Shoben and Ward).
Methods of Pattern Making
Pattern making involves three methods-
- Drafting
- Draping
- Flat paper patternmaking
Drafting: includes measurements of sizing systems or precise measurements of a individual, dress or body shape. Chest, waist, hip and so on measurements and easy allowances are labeled on paper and building lines are drawn to finish the pattern. Drafting is used to produce fundamental patterns, patterns of foundation or design.
Draping: includes the draping around a shape of a two-dimensional piece of fabric, conforming to its shape, producing a tridimensional pattern of fabric. To be used as a final model (Armstrong), this muslin is transmitted to paper. In order to make the garment comfortable to wear, easy motion allowances are added. The advantage of draping is that before cutting and sewing the garment piece, the designer can see the general design effect of the completed garment on the body shape. It is more costly and time consuming, however, than creating flat patterns.
Flat pattern making: includes developing a fundamental pattern equipped with ease of convenience to suit a individual or body shape. A sloper is the starting point for developing flat patterns. It's a straightforward pattern that suits the body with enough convenience and motion (Shoben and Ward). For women's garments, five fundamental pattern parts are used. They include a snug-fitting front bodice and back bodice with darts and a fundamental neckline, a sleeve and a front and back fitted skirt with darts. However, women's styles commonly fluctuate as fashion shifts. Then they manipulate these fundamental slopers to produce fashions.
There are no seam allowances for a fundamental sloper, which promotes its manipulation of different styles. It has no interest in design, it is labeled only by building lines. It is essential that a sloper's fundamental design should be such that it is easy to make changes. Precise measurements are of utmost significance for a good pattern making.
Because it is quick and precise (Aldrich), the flat pattern making technique is commonly used in the ready-to-wear industry.
Making patterns in today's globe
With the use of computers, pattern making today has become an simple task. There are nowadays various software available on the market to satisfy the manufacturers ' requirements. Gerber, Lectra, Tukatech, OptiTex etc. are the various software used. These software made the Pattern master's work simpler. They made the pattern method more cost-effective and less time consuming.
Software patterning allows you to input your readings and design a pattern. These software design patterns to specifically suit your measurements, eliminating the sewing room's much easier test and mistake.
Using these software can create a pattern from a 3D form in just a few steps. Measurements of an individual are gathered from a 3D body scanner. The measurements are used to build the body of the individual's virtual 3D model. In relation to the 3D body model, the 3D to 2D software allows the user to define a garment surface. Once the garment surface is defined, a 2D flat pattern in.dxf format is automatically unwrapped and output by the application.
